HistoryThe Twilight of the Queen of Oudh
Three days in Paris before oblivion — Père-Lachaise's first Indian grave.
HistoryThree days in Paris before oblivion — Père-Lachaise's first Indian grave.
When she passed through the gates of Paris on 21 January 1858, Malka Khachwar did not yet know that the City of Light would grant her only three meagre days before drawing the curtain of eternity across her. Queen of Oudh, widow of the late Amjad Ali Shah and mother of the last sovereign of a kingdom that British ambition had just wiped from the map, she was, in that cold season, nothing more than a dignified silhouette adrift in the European fog. Her tomb, tucked away at the heart of Père-Lachaise, remains the very first Indian grave in the Parisian necropolis; and yet, which passer-by would suspect that such majesty lies buried beneath the silence?
Yet it all began amid the splendour of Lucknow, the pearl of northern India, where Malka, born around 1805, rose to become one of the most influential figures at court. Fate turned on 7 February 1856, when Lord Dalhousie, acting in the name of the East India Company, decreed the outright annexation of her kingdom. While her son, the deposed King Wajid Ali Shah, wore himself out in fruitless negotiations with London, the queen mother, driven by a fierce resolve, set out on a desperate journey to Europe to wrest her land from oblivion.
Only three days after setting foot on Parisian cobblestones, she died, carried off by a mysterious illness.
The journey, alas, soon turned into a diplomatic ordeal. When the British demanded she accept their nationality — a ploy to make her recognise the annexation — the sovereign refused to bow. She turned instead to the France of Napoleon III, hoping to find in this self-styled arbiter of nations a last resort for her cause. But the exhaustion of travel and the bitterness of exile had already sealed her fate: only three days after setting foot on Parisian cobblestones, she died, carried off by a mysterious illness.
On 27 January 1858, she was buried in Division 85 of Père-Lachaise. There, her family had an Indo-Islamic mausoleum built in vivid colours, a monumental structure of twenty-five square metres that would, for decades, stand out by its exoticism among the stone crosses and neo-Gothic chapels. Then time began its slow, devouring work. Left untended, the palace of colour collapsed in the early twentieth century, giving way to a plain slab that ivy, little by little, hid from view.
Today, Malka Khachwar is no more than a shadow among the cemetery's ghosts, her grave having grown even more fleeting than her memory. Her kingdom is dead, her monument has perished, and no guide murmurs her name to the passing crowds. And yet, in the secrecy of the archives, she remains forever that foreign queen who, coming to plead her cause, found along her way only a foreign land to receive her final sleep.
Yes. The grave of Malka Khachwar, Queen of Oudh, buried in Division 85 on 27 January 1858, is the cemetery's first Indian grave. Other families from the Indian diaspora have been buried there since, but none has received a monument to match her original mausoleum.
See all the gravesYou can get close to it, but there is almost nothing left to see. The 25-square-metre Indo-Islamic mausoleum collapsed in the early 20th century for lack of upkeep: only a slab remains, partly overgrown with ivy, in Division 85.
Opening hours and access to the cemeteryBecause Paris was a major diplomatic capital in the 19th century: deposed princes, political exiles and delegations pleading their cause stayed there for long periods, and some died there. Père-Lachaise, the only major Paris cemetery able to accommodate grand monuments, became their final address.
The history of Père-LachaiseDivision 85 notably holds the grave of Marcel Proust, a black marble slab where readers leave madeleines. It lies in the eastern part of the cemetery, around twenty minutes from the main entrance on Boulevard de Ménilmontant.
Marcel Proust's grave